The Gods of Rock…

So when last I posted, I was more than a little overwhelmed by my recent trip to The Eternal City. In 4 days I managed to cram what feels like a million little memories – and over 400 photos – into all of the nooks and crannies of my brain.

But I think I have started to make a little sense of it all and a few curious themes have emerged that, with the help of my trusty guidebook, I will use to share my Roman holiday with you.

The theme of this post is gods. Rock gods. Gods made of rock, that is. They are everywhere…but as usual, there’s a wry twist (my brain does work in some strange ways) so hope you enjoy the views in more ways the one.


The God of Shopping:
The Emperor Trajan built Trajan’s Markets, a ‘visionary’ complex of 150 shops and offices, around 100AD just near the Forum. It sold everything from imported silks and spices to fresh fish, fruit and flowers and was considered one of the Wonders of the Classical World. (There’s hope for Westfield yet.) I wonder what sorts of things the Romans spent their TrajanCard points on? 
The God of Vertiginous Places
The Archangel Michael stands atop the Castel Sant’Angelo, the place that bears his name. (Let me tell you it’s high up there but the view is worth it.) He also pays tribute to the legendary appearance of the real archangel over the fortress in the 6th century which allegedly marked the end of a rather nasty plague. Despite being made of bronze, he is a god who definitely rocks.


The God of Cutting Off One’s Nose…
He stands in the Courtyard of Honour at the Castel Sant’Angelo. It looks like he began life as a mere statue and in a fit of jealous pique, stuck some questionable wings on his back, aspiring to the greatness of the one upstairs – the Archangel Michael, that is. This diva strop probably cost him the top spot on the terrace and he is now relegated to merely overseeing the courtyard (and the entrance  the current Cupid and Psyche exhibition).
The Gods of Rock (n Roll)
Located at the Pincio Gardens end of the Piazza del Popolo, this foursome overlook ‘The People’s Square’ which was the main entrance into Rome for the pilgrims. The Piazza, described by wikipedia as an ‘oval square'(?), was the site of public executions for centuries. Hope no-one ‘lost their head’ over this fab four.
The God of Useless Gifts
This statue is probably a testament to something quite serious and memorable but I thought he looked liked my sister and I do when extracting our annual Christmas crap tat from the toe of the stocking. Like ‘really? What on earth am i going to do with this?’ (Love you Mum)
The God of Hide and Seek
This cupid peeks over the edge of the Santa Francesca Romano at the eastern end of The Forum. It beats getting lost trying to find your way through all those basilicas and temples and such – he’d have a nice clear view down the Via Sacra from that vantage point.

The God of Being Underfoot
I think this one’s a King but I was in the process of being asked to leave Santa Maria del Popolo as they were closing. This was poor planning on my part. I thought I had visited this church earlier in my trip but on checking my trusty Eyewitness Travel Guide, discovered that I had lit a candle in Santa Maria di Miracoli on the opposite side of the piazza instead. So I dropped in, unplanned, on my last morning after wandering down from the Pincio Gardens and it was a very quick and sneaky snap on the way past the man speaking Italian at me as if I understood. I felt (and ‘this’ was) in no uncertain terms, underfoot.

The God of Wishful Thinking
We’ve all heard of the Trevi Fountain – it’s one of the most popular places the tourists go and I braved the hordes on my first night  – that’s why you get the strange yellow lighting in this photo. The Fountain was built in the 18th Century to mark the place where the Aqua Virgo aqueduct ended and features the god Neptune and 2 Tritones. Legend has it that throwing a coin in the Trevi will guarantee a return to the Eternal City – it worked for me last trip so I added another to the pile glistening beneath the surface.
The God of Stealth
I couldn’t help but take a photo from the top of the open-top bus as we whizzed past the Piazza del Popolo and down the Via Ripetta. Check out this cheeky critter angling for some of those grapes. Little does he know they have a heart of stone. Oh well…pigeons will be pigeons.

So there’s your first peek around Rome’s Rock Royalty. If you enjoyed this armchair tour, you might like to stay tuned for more of my irreverent ramblings, coming soon to a browser near you…

Stuck For Words…

Last week I went on holiday to Rome.

It was amazing.

I’d been before – 12 years ago – and we were bussed in and around the sights in the space of 2 days before travelling onto Florence. This time I stayed centrally for 4 whole days, took my guidebook and let myself wander and discover. To absorb Rome’s piazzas, its pizza, its history and its espresso. Its exuberant and irrepressible spirit.

It was fabulous.

I came back Saturday night filled to the brim with vivid memories, and a squillion photos, to share.

And I really don’t know where to start.

I’m stuck. Lost in so many experienes I can barely create any semblance of structure to transfer them (or at least some of them) from my mind’s eye to yours.

This is really strange – I feel the urge to write about it all but can’t seem get past the block. So while I’m working through this dilemma, I thought I’d share a titbit about my inspiration for the trip.

Roman Holiday is one of those wonderful, wonderful movies that makes me feel good all over and I curled up happily a few days before my departure to watch it all over again. Audrey Hepburn captures perfectly Rome’s exuberant spirit and Gregory Peck’s dashingly handsome Joe provides the perfect foil for her wide-eyed charm.

In reality Peck, so convinced by Hepburn’s Oscar-winning performance, insisted that her name appear with his prior to the movie title and the two of them remained good friends until Hepburn’s death in 1993.

There is a scene in the movie where Peck and Hepburn visit the Bocca della Veritas – the Mouth of Truth. You know the scene…where they play at truth-telling while putting their hand inside the mouth. (If you don’t know this scene, shame on you!) Anyway, Peck convinced the director to let him play a prank on Hepburn by pretending that something grabbed his hand.

Neither told her.

So the young princess’ squeal of terror and feisty yet delightful response was Hepburn’s actual reaction to Peck’s prank – and that marvellous scene, captured for all eternity, was filmed in one take.

And that, I think, sums up my Roman holiday…captured for all eternity.

Travel Broadens The Mind…It’s A Virtual Life

It’s been a little while since Gidday from the UK has dipped into the pages of BA’s business:life magazine. But a quick trip to Pilsen this week meant that I had some time to waste invest in finding a few fascinating facts to share with you.

Interestingly, this post follows the same examination of a particular topic by some of my blogging brethren. The Day Social Media Took Over My Life, Bilingual Baby M and The Facebook by expat bloggers Russell in Sydney, Linda in The Hague and Kirsty in Dubai respectively have all explored the pros and cons, the whys and wherefores, of social media. 

Like it or not, our world is becoming more and more digital and we continue to embrace it in all its doubtful glory as evidenced by the hype around Facebook’s floatation this month. According to business:life, we watch sport online (36% of 18-35 year-old Europeans watch more sport online than on TV) and book holidays online (that’d be 2/3 of Britons). And 4.9 million people used WiFi hotspots in hotels, coffee shops, restaurants and airports in the UK last year. So even outside the dual digital domains of work and home we continue to ‘plug in’.  

In fact 10% of people would rather give up their car than be disconnected from the internet…she says, tap-tap-tapping away here having given up her vehicle some two and a half years ago.

But I digress.

Did you know that 54% of British children say they’d rather go to Google with a query than ask their parents or teachers? What a sad indictment. Although this is probably just as well. Apparently 50% of British adults think that Mount Everest is in the UK. This does not bode well for today’s British babies, 1/3 of whom will live until the age of 100.

business:life statistics reveal that 20% of us check our bank accounts at least once a day – could you imagine popping into the bank and standing in line every day? No thank you. All hail the internet I say!

And let’s face it – the job market will never be the same again with 150 million people and more than 2 million companies worldwide using LinkedIn. But be warned. 1 in 5 bosses turned down a candidate because of their profile on social networking sites.

So it would appear that it still pays to be circumspect. To keep some things private

Especially as 28% of British workers deem nose picking to be the most anti-social workplace activity.

Do you think that’s why 90% of people would still hang onto their car?

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Travel Broadens The Mind – Back Catalogue
…The Euro Zone
…All About The Readies
…Flights Of Fancy
…Or So They Say

Passage of Time…

One of my most inspiring moments during my recent trip to Dublin occurred at Newgrange in the Boyne Valley. Mum had been disappointed to miss this last time she visited, so this was on the ‘must do’ list for our soujourn in the Emerald Isle. It was awesome – and I mean that in the original sense of the word.

Newgrange is a 45 minute drive north of Dublin and is part of a complex of 40 passage tombs located in the Boyne Valley. It was built approximately 5,000 years ago, pre-dating the Great Pyramids of Giza and, along with neighbouring passage tombs Knowth and Dowth, has been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.



Most famously, Newgrange is recognised for its importance in relation to the Winter Solstice. On the 21st December each year, the rising sun sends shafts of light through the roofbox above the main entrance, the light creeping forward in a point shaped by the walls of the passage to illuminate the sacred chamber at the end before receding for another year. Even more fascinating is that this ritual is mirrored at Dowth at sunset on the same day.

The illuminated passage at Newgrange. Source: http://www.newgrange.com

It is difficult to imagine just how these were built. Much like the more famous temples of ancient Egypt and Britain’s own Stonehenge, there is continued fascination surrounding their positioning and enduring construction methods as well as the role that these monuments played in the life of Stone Age communities.

Evidence has been found of farming in the area as early as 3800 BC but it appears that the main construction of Newgrange commenced in 3300 BC. It is suggested that Newgrange was built to the shape of the ridge and the original ground plan laid out first with both the entrance stone and back stone placed along with the stone at the back of the main chamber as markers.
From about 3000 BC, Newgrange took its final shape. This model shows 4 smaller passage tombs built, some before and some afterwards, in line with Newgrange.
After the final blocking stone was placed, the focus moved to external monuments from 2800 BC for a period of 600 years.
Access to Newgrange is a 4 minute trip by bus from the Visitor Centre and only available with a guide so we booked our places and spent an hour completely amazed….
Newgrange from the Bru na Boinne Visitor Centre
Newgrange is surrounded by stone markers, the significance of which remains a mystery.
Going inside the tomb was completely amazing and included a short ‘re-enactment’ of the Solstice experience. To think that we stood under a 5,000 year old corbelled stone ceiling that no light or water has ever penetrated. Awe-inspring stuff.

There are a number of highly decorated stones at Newgrange both inside and outside the monument. Many show the triple spiral which has featured in carvings as far back as those of the Australian Aborigines 40,000 years ago.
The views from the entrance of Newgrange across the Boyne Valley are spectacular. Most of our visit was beneath sunny blue skies but this moment of cloud gave it something of a portentous feel.
These photos do not come close to doing it justice but how do you capture a sense of history and atmosphere like that? All I can say is that this was my trip highlight, my enchanted moment so to speak. In fact I was so inspired that I entered the lottery to attend this year’s Winter Solstice at Newgrange so keep your fingers crossed for me! 

Oh and I get to take ‘a friend’….any takers?

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Interested in finding out more about Newgrange and the passage tombs of the Boyne Valley? Check out http://www.knowth.com/bru-na-boinne.htm

Colour And Character…

So this is the first Dublin post. But it’s probably not what you expected. There’s no Guinness, no leprechauns, no national heros, no river dancing.

To be honest, I wondered what to post about. While I enjoyed Dublin, I didn’t really have that moment of enchantment, that second that, as I round some corner and go wow, makes me want to return. But as I went through my photos, I realised that I’d managed to capture an unexpected aspect of Dublin’s colour and character…so eyes up people, here we go…

The post boxes are green…

…as are the doors.

But the doors are also pink…

…and red…

…and even orange!

There were elephants (no trip is complete without a nod to the original blog of The Displaced Nation‘s ML Awanohara – Seen The Elephant)…

…plenty of watering holes…

…and a little bit of culture.

These Dubliners do like to paint stuff all over their walls whether it’s a telling a story…

…a nod to generations past…

…or a promise to clean up their act.

Sometimes it gets a little abstract…

…or like pieces of a puzzle.

But as we were on the go for four whole days…

…it was great to find a spot to rest at last…

…under the swaying palm.

Departures…

After a 10 day sojourn, Mum flew out to Dubai last night on the final leg of her February 2012 odyssey. It’s quiet here this afternoon at Gidday HQ but I have lots of things to be getting on with before it’s back to work tomorrow.

All up it’s been a busy 10 days with some ‘must dos’ not done as we traded off a few excursions for a little chill out time at home. I’ll post about some of the specific things we did over the next week or so – that’ll be more posts of the ‘Armchair‘ variety coming up for you – but in summary we shopped, played tourist, ate, drank and were generally slightly hysterical very merry.

Day 1 started gently for my erstwhile traveller, recovering from 2 weeks amidst the hurly burly of Egypt with a sleep in, a short stroll around my local park and a coffee stop or two before heading into The Tower of London in the evening for the Ceremony of the Keys.

The Ceremony of the Keys has been occurring every night at the Tower for the last 700 years and is the ritual of securing the Tower and the Crown Jewels for the night. From arrival at the West Gate at 9.30pm to departure at approximately 10.15pm, every moment was filled with a sense of both occasion and history as the Yeoman Warder led the group down to stand at Traitor’s Gate and watch the ceremony.

After explaining the ceremony itself, he left us to watch in silence as he joined his fellow warders in the ritual locking of the two outer gates, the steady march towards Traitor’s Gate right through to the proclamation that the Tower had been secured and the haunting notes of the bugler’s Last Post. This is definitely one of London’s hidden gems and even better, it is free but you need to send off a request form a couple of months in advance. You can click here to go to the website and check it out for yourself.

Saturday we were off to High Tea at The Connaught in Mayfair with A-down-the-hill to enjoy a significantly posher version of our previous Champers and Cupcakes escapades…

Champers gets our afternoon off to a fab start
There were also scones (they were scrum-diddly-umptious) and we got to choose three jams between us – my fave was the Apple & Quince!

Mum and I took ourselves off to see The Artist afterwards which meant a much needed 25 minute waddle along Oxford Street…

Oxford Circus
Selfridges
Get your five a day at the junction of Oxford and Duke Streets

Sunday was clear and crisp so we headed off to Greenwich. This will be featured as an Armchair post so more about our day later on. Suffice to say we managed to get our hands on something quite old…

We did a spot of shopping on Monday then decided on a ‘rest day’ before heading off to Dublin on Wednesday for 4 days. This little trip warrants a couple of dedicated posts but for now, I’ll leave you with a highlights package…

The Boyne Valley, about 45 minutes drive north of Dublin, has 40 passage tombs in all shapes, sizes and states of preservation…
…and we visited Newgrange Passage Tomb which predates the pyramids.
.
I poured (and drank) the perfect pint at The Guinness Storehouse (and have a certificate to prove it)…
…while Irish history came to life for me at Kilmainham Jail.
I was delighted to find a ‘host of golden daffodils’ in Merrion Square…
…whilst visiting the Famine memorial by the Liffey River was quite moving.

We managed to cram a lot into our four days and came back to Gidday HQ on Saturday night absolutely exhuasted. Then departure day had arrived, all too soon it seemed, with much packing and sorting going on before heading back out to Heathrow again and hugging Mum goodbye.

As I walked away from the Departure Gate, I felt the familiar tearing of my heart between the love of family on the other side of the world and the connection of my soul with London. And I wondered at what it was in me that led me here so very far away, and where I might end up next.

In-Flight Safety…Time To Man U(p)!

So this week’s travels found me in Turkey for the first time. And this little sojourn also yielded my first association with the best airline in Europe, Turkish Airlines.

Normally the airline experience is all much of a much-ness for me. The pre-boarding is usually long-winded and inconvenient – what with the cursory strip and scan required by security – and the comfort once on-board is measured in a matter of millimetres.

And on the face of it, Turkish Airlines, was to be no different.

Until, that is, they screened their in-flight safety video.

You see Turkish Airlines are one of the many sponsors of Manchester United and they’ve roped in six of their finest to help them promote a little in-flight health and safety…

You may think it a bit ridiculous, those boys from Man U playing silly buggars with safety on-board, but let me tell you, it was the first on-board safety video I’ve watched in a long time.

And let’s face it, a little mile-high giggle can never be a bad thing, right?

Postcard from Valencia…Ole!

Hola peeps! 
This week I have been in Valencia. And this being my first trip, I decided to Armchair Tour you around what I got up to. You should note, however, that this does not mean I did the tourist trail thing – if you are planning a little Spanish sojourn of your own to the region and want to read up more, you should click here.
First things first: Valencia is home to the mighty paella, a rice dish cooked over an open flame in a large pan of the same name. We tend to consider paella as the country’s national dish but in Spain, paella is a regional dish from Valencia. Ask a Valencian and they will tell you that there is only one paella – made from white rice, green vegetables, meat (rabbit, duck, chicken), land snails, beans and seasoning, and nothing else. All others are  pretenders: ‘seafood’ paella is not paella at all, but rather rice with vegetables and seafood.
Traditional paella – apparently all other comers are frauds and should be referred to as ‘rice with…’ .

Oh and yes, I had some – it was delicious!

So now we’ve cleared that up, let’s move on to activities of the meandering kind.

Evening in Spain begins quite late and most nights, we were starving meeting for dinner at 9pm. On our second night, our Regional Director was keen to show us something of his original hometown so we wandered through Valencia’s city centre with a few stops along the way. This is largely how it went:

So much gorgeous architecture in Valencia
The Tower and La Catedral
La Catedral
Gothic architecture at La Catedral
(In case you were wondering, I really liked the Cathedral)
Still walking – quite thirsty work!
So we stopped here for a beer…bottoms up!
Another lovely street scene, but by now we were wondering when we were going to get to eat
Our dinner destination at last – where we ate, drank and be’d merry
Gin is a HUGE deal in Spain with a good bar stocking somewhere between 20-30 different varieties. Knowing my prediliction for the stuff, said Regional Manager introduced me to his friend, The Owner, who gave us a tipple of his ‘best’!
Absolutely stuffed with good food and wine, we waddled along more streets in search of a calorie-burning nightcap…
…which we found here as well as a bit of a boogie-on-down.
Walking back to the hotel later on, we passed this monument. I  could not for the life of me find out who it was, despite passing it 4 times throughout the 2 and a half day trip – but it remained an inspiration in spite of its anonymity…
Yes, it’s a blurry pic but I was really ‘giving it some welly’ and the lass behind the lens had been with us all night. Nuff said!

So that was the night before but the armchair tour doesn’t stop here. After our meeting was finished, we had some time before our flights back to…well, wherever home was for us all so it was Valencia’s sunny skies that beckoned – and a rather unique lunch venue.

The City of Arts and Sciences is a collection of five areas created in the dry river bed of the diverted River Turia. The work began in 1996 under the stewardship of architect and local-lad-made-good, Santiago Calatrava, and is very modern compared with the city tour of the night before. There is the Opera House and Performing Arts Centre, the Prince Felipe Museum of Sciences, L’Hemisferic – containing an IMAX cinema, planetarium and laserium, the gardens and walkway, and L’Oceanografic which is a bit like an open air Sea World.

Sunny Valencian skies over the City of Arts and Sciences
The Opera House – looks a little familiar to me?
The Prince Felipe Museum of Science was designed to emulate the skeleton of a whale.
View standing on traffic island in the middle of the Pont del Grau
View of the Prince Felipe Musem of Sciences, L’Hemisferic and the Opera House (or El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía)
Restaurante Submarino at L’Oceanografic, our venue for lunch
Surrounded by the local wildlife. I’ll have one of those and two of those…
Submarino Bar – amazingly cool lighting…looks like anenomes
And after lunch it was a 40 minute stroll back to the hotel along the old river bed for me
Amazing what they can create from a dry old riverbed, isn’t it?

So it was with regret that I waved good bye to that glorious, glorious sunshine, returned to the hotel and prepared to catch my plane home. But not before I had discovered that London’s main man had found a little inspiration of his own here too…

Valencia’s very own Boris bikes!

Did I say at all that I love my job?

No?

Well I do!

A Liverpudlian Tipple…

I was in Liverpool for work last week (yes I know, this Gidday Gal’s been getting around a bit of late) and as part of the conference agenda was a Brewery Tour.

What? I hear you say. No Fab Four tour?

No, but ours was a magical mystery tour of a completely different kind.

Cains Brewery was started by young Irish immigrant, Robert Cain who bought his first pub in Limekiln Street, Liverpool at the tender age of 24. In 1858, just eight years later, Cain’s hard work enabled him to buy the site on the corner of Stanhope Street where his brewery still stands today – and is the site of our tour.

Twenty-five years later, Robert Cain was one of the wealthiest and most influential businessman in Liverpool, having built over 200 pubs Mersey-side (and a palatial mansion for himself) as well as a reputation for exceptional quality. Of beer I mean. I can’t speak for any of his other predelictions.

In 1887, the year of Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee, Cain began work on the red brick brewery and ornate tower that still in use today (I can attest to this personally) and remains a Liverpool landmark and upon his death in 1907 (at the age of 81) more than 3,000 mourners attended this ‘adopted local’ lad’s funeral.

But it’s been a checkered past for Cain’s. During the 1900s, the brewery changed hands 5 times. A merger with Walkers of Warrington in 1911 saw the newly formed business become one of Britain’s top 50 companies by 1918. Then in 1923, the Stanhope Brewery was sold to Higson’s. – Cain’s continued to flourish until Higson’s sold out to Boddington’s of Manchester in 1985. The company then faced a further change of ownership 5 years later as Boddington’s divested its breweries to Whitbread who then closed the landmark brewery. In 1990, the site was reopened by The Danish Brewery Group who renamed it Robert Cain & Co Ltd but despite brewing a popular Liverpudlian pint, in 2002 the business found itself on the brink of closure.

The current owners, the Dusanj brothers, were inspired by the ethos and tradition of Robert Cain & Company and believing that success could not only be found for the product in Liverpool but around the world, mounted a rescue operation. Under their stewardship, Cains now brews more than 120 million pints a year and is one of the fastest-growing brewers in the country.

One of the innovations brought to market by the brothers is Cain’s Fine Raisin Beer which has won a few awards including Winner of Tesco’s Autumn Beer Challenge in 2003, “Beer of the Festival” at the 2004 Liverpool CAMRA Festival and “World’s Best Fruit Beer” at the World Beer Awards in 2007.

So I tried it – well it seemed rude not to – and quite liked it. Although it does not taste like raisins. Whether this is good or bad, I will leave you to decide.

In true immigrant-made-good fashion, Robert Cain had become a legendary brewmaster, married the Liverpool Lord Mayor’s daughter (he’s a mover and shaker that one) and was enobled as Lord Brocket (although what he would have made of his great-great grandson’s antics on I’m a Celebrity… in 2004 we’ll never know!).

Photo courtesy of officialpubguide.com

The Brewery is open to the public for tours and apart from the history lesson, you get to see how all that lovely beer is made and then get yourself a little tipple or two on the house at the The Brewery Tap which adjoins the brewery.

Not bad for £7.99 eh? 

Sigh…I love my job!

Nuremberg Post Script…

So last we corresponded I’d been in Nuremberg and I revealed that there had been some wining, dining and generally sociable behaviour. I also mentioned we’d been to Peruvian restaurant, El Encanto to celebrate a busy and successful week.

The following is the result of what happens when combining two hysterical tired females with cocktails and arm them with a camera while they are impatiently waiting for their food….

My small contribution to Movember
These napkin rings look like ears!
Look pigtails! (aka Heidi Hair, the closest I’m likely to get…)
Bringing out my inner devil…

Here endeth the lesson.